HEIC to JPG Converter
Convert HEIC to JPG right in your browser, up to 50 photos at a time. Your iPhone photos are decoded on your own device and never uploaded, at full resolution, for free.
Drop your HEIC photos here to convert them to JPG
HEIC or HEIF. Up to 16 MB per file, up to 50 at a time, converted on your device and never uploaded.
Your iPhone Photos,
Readable Everywhere.
Apple switched to HEIC in 2017 because it halves the size of a photo. Everyone else declined to follow, so the file that looks fine on your phone is the one your work laptop, your printer and half the upload forms on the internet refuse to open. This turns it back into a JPG, which is the format that never has this problem.
What people usually do next
Converting is rarely the last step. These pick up where this page leaves off.
Tools that pair well with this one
All free, all in your browser, no signup.
How to convert HEIC to JPG
Three steps, no account, up to 50 photos a run.
Add your HEIC photos
Drop them on the box or pick them from your device. Select as many as you like, up to fifty.
Press convert
JPG is already selected. Open the settings first if you want to change the quality.
Download the JPGs
Save them one at a time or take the whole batch as a zip. No watermark, no signup.
The short version
Why convert HEIC to JPG at all?
HEIC is a better format than JPG by almost every technical measure. That is not the problem. The problem is that being better is not the same as being accepted.
Apple made HEIC the default camera format in iOS 11, in September 2017, and the reason was storage: the same photo takes about half the space. Eight years later, Chrome still will not display one, Firefox will not either, and Windows asks you to buy a codec. The format won on merit and lost on adoption, and the file sitting in your camera roll is the one holding the bill.
- Something on the other end rejects it: Job application portals, insurance claim forms, print shops, eBay and Amazon listings, and most content management systems accept JPG and nothing exotic. This is the most common reason by a wide margin.
- You moved the photos to a PC: A HEIC copied to Windows opens as a grey box or not at all unless you have installed the extensions. A JPG has never once needed explaining to a computer.
- You need to send them to someone: Email attachments, WhatsApp on desktop, Slack, and anyone on an Android phone all deal with a JPG. A HEIC arrives as a file the recipient has to ask you about.
- You are editing them somewhere older: Plenty of photo software, especially anything more than a few years old, has no HEIC support and never will.
Worth knowing: the size of the JPG is decided by the quality setting, not by the format. On a 2.9 MB, 12 megapixel photo the default 75% gives a 1.8 MB JPG, which is smaller than the HEIC was, and 100% gives 9.4 MB, which is more than three times it. The format does cost you efficiency, and where you land on that trade is a control rather than a fact.
The part that matters
Converting HEIC to JPG without uploading anything
Almost every free HEIC converter works by taking your photos, sending them to a server, converting them there and sending them back. This one does not, and the difference is worth understanding before you pick either.
Reading a HEIC needs an HEVC decoder, and no browser except Safari ships one. For years that genuinely left uploading as the only option, which is why so many converters work that way: the tool was not being careless, the browser could not do the job. That stopped being true. libheif, the reference implementation of the format, compiles to about two megabytes of WebAssembly, and your browser runs it at roughly a second per twelve megapixel photo.
- Nothing is transmitted: Your photos are read from your own disk into your own tab. There is no server to trust with them, which is a stronger guarantee than any privacy policy, including ours.
- It works offline: Load the page once and the conversion itself needs no connection. A dropped Wi-Fi signal halfway through a batch of fifty changes nothing.
- There is no queue and no size-based upsell: Your device is doing the work, so a hundred conversions cost us the same as zero. That is why there is no daily cap and no account.
The honest cost: the first HEIC you convert downloads that two megabyte decoder, so the first photo takes a few seconds longer than the rest. After that it is cached for the session and every other photo in the batch goes straight through. On a slow phone connection that first wait is real, and it is the one thing an upload-based converter does faster.
Converting multiple HEIC files at once
Drop in up to 50 photos and they run one after another, each with its own row and its own progress. This is the normal case, not an advanced feature: nobody transfers one photo off a phone.
- One failure does not sink the batch: A damaged or half-transferred file fails on its own row, by name, and the other forty-nine carry on. You are told which one, so you can go and look at it.
- You can stop partway: A run of fifty full-resolution photos takes a minute or so. Press stop and it finishes the photo it is on and stops there, with everything already converted still downloadable.
- Take them as a zip: Download them individually or grab the whole batch in one file, which is usually what you want when you have just converted a folder.
- Mixed folders are fine: A folder with HEICs, JPGs and PNGs mixed together works. Anything already a JPG is passed through untouched rather than re-encoded, so it loses nothing.
Fifty is where the queue stops being something you can scan, not where the tool gives up. Converting is one decode and one encode per photo on your own machine, run in sequence, so a big batch costs you time rather than memory. If you have more than fifty, do it in two runs.
Where these files come from
Converting iPhone photos to JPG
Every photo your iPhone has taken since 2017 is a HEIC unless you changed a setting. Here is how to convert the ones you have, and how to stop the phone making more of them.
You can convert them here directly from the phone. Open this page in Safari on the iPhone, tap the button, pick Photo Library, and select as many as you need. The JPGs save straight back to your camera roll. Nothing installs and nothing leaves the device.
- To stop your iPhone shooting HEIC: Settings, then Camera, then Formats, then choose Most Compatible. New photos are saved as JPG from that moment on. It costs you roughly double the storage per photo, and it is the right trade if you move photos to a PC often.
- To convert on the way to a computer: Settings, then Photos, then scroll to Transfer to Mac or PC and pick Automatic. The phone converts to JPEG as it copies. This only applies to a cable transfer, not to AirDrop or iCloud downloads.
- AirDrop already does it, sometimes: AirDropping a photo to a Mac keeps it as HEIC. AirDropping to some non-Apple targets converts it. This is why people end up with a mixed folder and no idea which is which, and why the batch above accepts both.
Changing the camera setting does nothing to the photos you already have. The thousands of HEICs already in your library stay HEICs, which is what this converter is for.
HEIC to JPG on Windows, Mac and Android
The reason you are looking for a converter usually depends on which machine you are sitting at. All three cases end up here, but they start differently.
| Where you are | What happens with a HEIC | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Windows 10 and 11 | Photos shows a grey box and asks you to install something. The HEIF Image Extensions package is free, but it leans on HEVC Video Extensions, which Microsoft charges for. | Convert here instead. It costs nothing and it fixes the file rather than the one PC you are sitting at. |
| macOS | Opens fine everywhere in the system, because Apple ships the codec. The trouble starts when you send the file to somebody else. | Convert before sharing, or use Preview's export. Either works; this is faster for a batch. |
| Android | Recent Android versions read HEIC. Older ones, and plenty of individual apps on any version, do not. | Convert here in Chrome on the phone. The decoder runs on the device the same way it does on a laptop. |
| Chrome, Firefox, Edge | Will not display a HEIC at all, on any operating system, including macOS. | This page works in all of them, because it brings its own decoder rather than asking the browser for one. |
The Windows codec route is worth knowing about but rarely worth taking. It fixes HEIC on that one computer, which does nothing for the person you are emailing the photo to, and it is the paid package that does the actual decoding.
Converting HEIC to JPG without losing quality
This is the most-asked question about this conversion and it deserves a straight answer rather than a reassuring one. There is a real loss, it is smaller than people fear, and you control it.
Both HEIC and JPG are lossy formats, so the photo in your camera roll has already been through one round of compression. Converting re-encodes it a second time, and a second lossy encode is never free. What makes it a non-issue in practice is that the detail JPG throws away is largely the detail HEIC already threw away, so the second pass has much less left to take.
- Resolution is untouched: Every pixel survives. A 4032 by 3024 HEIC becomes a 4032 by 3024 JPG. Nothing is downscaled, which is the loss people actually notice and the one some converters quietly apply.
- Quality starts at 75%: That is the setting where a photograph keeps its detail and the file stays reasonable. On an ordinary photo there is nothing visible to find at this setting.
- Push it to 100% when it matters: Open the settings and take it to 100 for anything you will edit again, print, or archive. The file gets considerably larger and the second encode stops costing you anything you could see.
What we will not claim: that this is lossless. JPG has no lossless mode, so a tool promising you a lossless HEIC to JPG conversion is either wrong or converting to something else. If you genuinely need every pixel preserved exactly, convert to PNG instead, and expect a file several times larger than the HEIC you started with.
HEIF to JPG is the same conversion
If your files end in .heif rather than .heic, you are in the right place and there is nothing to change.
HEIF is the container format, standardised as ISO/IEC 23008-12. HEIC is that container with an HEVC-encoded image inside it, which is what Apple writes. Because Apple's version is what most people encountered first, the .heic extension became the common name and .heif became the one used by Android phones, some desktop exporters, and anything writing the format without Apple's tooling.
The decoder here reads the container, not the extension, so a .heif and a .heic go through the identical path. You do not need to rename anything, and a folder holding both converts in one batch.
What happens to the metadata, EXIF and orientation
A conversion changes what a file is, and some of what was attached to it does not survive the trip. This is the part most converters do not mention, so here it is plainly.
- Orientation is preserved: The rotation is applied to the pixels, so your photo comes out the right way up in everything that opens it. This is the one piece of metadata that matters visually and the one converters most often get wrong.
- EXIF is not carried over: The date taken, camera model, exposure settings and GPS coordinates are dropped. The JPG is written fresh from the decoded pixels, and the encoder that writes it has no way to attach the original tags.
- The original HEIC is untouched: Nothing here modifies or deletes your source file, so the metadata still exists wherever the HEIC does. Keep the originals if the dates and locations matter to you.
For most people losing EXIF is neutral or actively good: stripping the GPS coordinates out of a photo before posting it publicly is something people install separate tools to do. If you need the dates preserved, a desktop tool like ExifTool or a native export from Photos will keep them, and this will not.
Built for a camera roll, not a single file.
Because nobody has ever had exactly one HEIC they needed converting.
Convert 50 photos in one go
Drop a whole folder in. Every photo gets its own row with its own progress, failures are named individually instead of taking the batch down, and you can stop a long run partway and keep what finished.
Nothing is uploaded, including the HEICs
The decoder is a piece of WebAssembly that runs inside your browser. Your photos are read off your own disk and never transmitted, which matters more here than on any other page: a camera roll is the most personal folder most people own.
Full resolution, every time
A 12 megapixel HEIC comes out as a 12 megapixel JPG. Nothing is downscaled, nothing is cropped, and there is no watermark, which is what most free HEIC converters are actually charging you for.
Photos come out the right way up
HEIC stores rotation as a container property, and converters that ignore it hand back a sideways photo. This reads the file's own rotation and applies it, so a portrait shot arrives portrait.
HEIF files work too
HEIC and HEIF are the same container with different extensions, so .heif files from Android phones and desktop exporters are accepted here without renaming anything.
Works on the phone the photos came from
Same tool, same speed on mobile. Convert straight from your camera roll on an iPhone and save the JPGs back to it, with no app to install.
HEIC to JPG: common questions
How the conversion works, and where it stops.
Drop your HEIC files onto the box at the top of this page, or press the button and pick them from your device. JPG is already selected as the output, so you can convert straight away.
You can select up to 50 photos at once. When they are done, save them individually or take the whole batch as a zip. There is no account step and no email step.
Yes, exactly the same. JPG and JPEG are two spellings of one format, and the only reason both exist is that old versions of Windows limited file extensions to three characters. The standard is JPEG; the extension became .jpg.
This page converts to files ending in .jpg, which every piece of software on earth treats identically to .jpeg. If something specifically demands a .jpeg extension, renaming the file is enough, because nothing inside it needs to change.
No. The decoder runs inside your browser, so your photos are read from your own device, converted in memory, and handed back. Nothing is transmitted, which means nothing can be stored, logged or leaked, and closing the tab erases every trace.
This is worth checking on any HEIC converter rather than taking on trust, and it is easy to check: open your browser's network tab while you convert. You will see the decoder download once and no request carrying your photo.
A small amount, and you control how much. Both formats are lossy, so re-encoding is a second compression pass, but most of what JPG discards is detail HEIC had already discarded. At the default 75% there is nothing visible to find on an ordinary photo.
Resolution never changes. Every pixel of a 12 megapixel photo is still there afterwards. If you want the absolute maximum, open the settings and set quality to 100%, which makes the file noticeably bigger and the loss academic.
That depends on the quality setting, and it goes both ways. On a 2.9 MB, 12 megapixel photo the default 75% produced a 1.8 MB JPG, which is smaller than the HEIC. Turning quality up to 100% produced 9.4 MB on the same photo, which is more than three times it.
The underlying fact is that HEIC is the more efficient format, so matching its quality costs more bytes in JPG. What that means in practice is that the default trades a little quality for a smaller file, and 100% keeps everything and pays for it. Neither is the right answer for everyone, which is why it is a setting.
If the JPG has to come in under a specific number, the image compressor takes it down to an exact size in KB.
No. The JPG is written fresh from the decoded pixels, so the date taken, camera model, exposure settings and GPS coordinates are not carried across. Rotation is the exception: it is applied to the image itself, so your photos come out the right way up.
Your original HEICs are not modified, so nothing is lost as long as you keep them. For a lot of people the stripping is the point, since it removes the GPS coordinates before a photo gets posted anywhere public.
16 MB per photo, which comfortably covers everything an iPhone produces, including the 48 megapixel mode on recent Pro models. There is also a 50 megapixel ceiling on the image itself, because a decoded photo needs four bytes per pixel in memory and a very large one can take a phone's tab down with no useful error.
Past either limit the tool declines the file and says so, rather than gambling and leaving you with a blank tab.
Both, and on Mac, Android and Linux. It is a web page with a decoder inside it, so the only requirement is a current browser. On an iPhone you can convert straight from the camera roll in Safari and save the JPGs back to it.
On Windows this is usually the better answer than installing Microsoft's HEIF and HEVC extensions, because those fix HEIC on that one computer while a JPG is readable everywhere you might send it.
Yes. HEIC is HEIF carrying an HEVC image, and the decoder reads the container rather than trusting the extension. Files ending in .heif go through the identical path, and a folder containing both converts in one batch with nothing to rename.
Yes. No signup, no watermark, no daily limit, and no cap on how many photos you convert. Your device does the work, so a hundred conversions cost us exactly what zero do, and there is nothing for us to charge you for.
Convert your HEIC photos now
Drop them in, press convert, download the JPGs. Nothing gets uploaded and there is nothing to sign up for.